--What vaccines are needed and why?
For your dog: Core (required) vaccines include Rabies and DHPP- this combination vaccine helps protect against distemper, parvo, hepatitis, and parainfluenza. Bordetella is a non core vaccine; however, it can still be very important. This vaccine helps protect against the upper respiratory bacteria that causes what is commonly referred to as “kennel cough”. The bordetella vaccine is almost always required to board your dog and is also sometimes required for dogs that frequent the groomer, dog park or dog shows. Here in Connecticut, ticks and Lyme Disease are an ongoing problem – despite having access to some of the best tick preventatives on the market. Hence, it is highly recommended to vaccinate your dog against Lyme. If your dog frequents the dog park, enjoys a swim in any lake/pond/river, or just loves to drink puddles they will need the Leptosporosis vaccine to protect against a potentially fatal water-borne disease. Depending on the vaccine protocol at different veterinary clinics, this vaccine may be incorporated into the Distemper vaccine.
For your cat: Core (required) vaccines include Rabies and FVRCP- The combination FVRCP vaccine includes rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and panleukopenia. The feline leukemia vaccine, or FELV, is a non core vaccine. It is strongly recommended that kittens be tested for the FELV virus prior to vaccination, usually at their first appointment. This is a simple blood test.
--To crate-train or not to crate-train?
If you enjoy coming home to find that your dog has: eliminated on your oriental rug/bed/carpet, scratched open cabinet doors and eaten all of the food inside, or chewed your Cole Haan loafers to bits – crate training is not for you. Crate training can be a very effective way of keeping a dog that just doesn’t know any better from getting into a lot of trouble. Dogs naturally seek areas that remind them of dens and enjoy the close confines of a crate. Crate training can be a difficult process, but the rewards are worth the trouble. Once comfortable with the idea of a crate, you and your dog can easily travel in the car and on a plane.
--Introducing a new cat to an existing one.
The best thing to do when introducing a new animal to your household is to first take them to the vet, to make sure they are disease and parasite free. After your new cat’s vet visit, confining the new cat in a good sized room is the best place to start. Place the new cat’s food, water, litter box and bed in this room to allow it to get accustomed to its new surroundings. The next step would be to switch the bed of the existing cat(s) with that of the new one, or just rub each cat with towels and introduce the new scents in a positive manner by placing the towel under their food dish. Remember, in this case, slow and steady wins the race, your cats’ emotional well-being is at hand, so don’t rush. After your cats have gotten used to each others’ smells, you can confine your existing cat(s) and allow the new cat to roam freely. After your new cat’s excursion, return them to their designated room and now prop the door open, but just enough so that they can see the other cat(s) if they happen to walk by.
--Introducing a new dog to an existing one.
1. Choose a neutral location, this helps to make sure the existing dog does not feel like the new one is invading its territory. Each dog should be handled by a separate person and be on leashes in case things should get out of hand.
2. Use positive reinforcement to make the dog’s associate good things with the other dog’s presence and always use a friendly voice when talking to the dogs.
3. Depending on how well the first meeting went, you may or may not choose to bring them home. Some ways to judge the emotions of the dogs is to go by body posture. When dogs put their front end on the ground while leaving the back end standing, this means they’re ready to play. Aggressive body language includes, arched back, hair standing up, baring teeth or prolonged stare, if you see any of these characteristics, it is best to separate the dogs and get them interested in something else for a period of time.
4. If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer.
--Dogs: the basic necessities:
Food, Treats, Bed/Crate, Collar, Leash, Brush or Comb, Shampoo, Nail Clippers, Bowls, Pooper Scooper or plastic bags, Flea and tick control, Toys, monthly heartworm preventative
--Cats: the basic necessities:
Food, Treats, Bed, Brush or Comb, Carrier, Bowls, Litter box, liners and litter, Flea and tick control, Toys, monthly heartworm preventative
--“My new dog has diarrhea”:
Dogs, like humans, can occasionally suffer from what is called “acute diarrhea” which happens suddenly and can last for a few days to a week. This can happen for many different reasons, most commonly it is something eaten that just doesn’t sit right. Unlike humans, dogs can occasionally get the urge to eat bizarre things such as sticks, toys, garbage and grass, and these are the culprits behind the bouts of diarrhea. If your dog has acute diarrhea, cutting down the amount of food given, adding bland foods such as rice or cottage cheese, and adding small amounts of foods with good bacteria such as plain yogurt, can help to calm the upset stomach. Another good idea is to put your dog on a fast for 24 to 48 hours. Routine screening blood work is sometimes recommended by the veterinarian, to help determine the underlying cause, and make sure that there are no adverse effects to what they have eaten. Ultimately, a vet visit is most recommended, as it will also help to rule out certain causes, and can potentially provide some soothing relief via prescription medications that may help to speed up the healing process.
--“My new dog has a frequent cough”:
The frequent, hacking cough could be “kennel cough” or Bordetella. It is very similar to bronchitis in humans, and can be caused by some kind of damage to the protective measures the respiratory system puts in place. Classically, dogs get infected when they are kept in a crowded situation with poor air circulation but lots of warm air (for example: a boarding kennel, vaccination clinic, obedience class, local park, animal shelter, animal hospital waiting room, or grooming parlor). In reality, most causes of coughing that begin acutely in the dog are due to infectious causes and usually represent some form of Kennel Cough. Veterinarians can give antibiotics to kill the Bordetella virus, and they also offer vaccinations to help protect your dog from getting it in the future. Bordetella can go away on its’ own, but it can also progress into much more dangerous issues such as pneumonia. In most cases, a visit to the veterinarian is the best solution.
--How much food should I feed my new dog/cat?
This depends on the metabolism, age, and size of your pet. For example, Great Danes need a larger volume of food each day than Chihuahuas, and an active Golden Retriever needs more than his brother who is much less energized. The same goes for your cat, only amounts vary less, because cats are generally closer in size. Since feeding quantity varies from animal to animal, be sure to evaluate your pet's level of fitness on a regular basis. Remember, the label on your pet's food is only a general guideline. Monitor your pet's weight. You should be able to feel you pet's ribs without pressing. Adjust the amount fed accordingly. Consult your veterinarian if you have questions or concerns about your pet’s weight. Another important tip is to give your pet the same amount of food each day. While some animals may be able to be free fed, others may not. Prescription diets are also helpful for many different circumstances, including animals that tend to be overweight.
--How should I go about changing my pet's food?
Changing food a lot can lead to finicky eating. Abrupt changes to a new diet can cause diarrhea and general dietary indiscretion. Change to the new diet over a minimum of 4 days by first mixing 1/4 new diet + 3/4 old diet, then 1/2 + 1/2, 3/4 + 1/4, and finally feeding only the new diet.
--What to bring to your new pet’s first vet visit:
If your pet had their first vet visit before you brought them home, be sure to have those records on hand. You should also bring a stool sample in for a parasite check. One other consideration in these initial visits is microchipping, which can be performed at the same time as any vaccinations or most commonly, at the time of spaying or neutering. If you choose this, a microchip is inserted through a needle between the shoulder blades, and you’ll have some paperwork to fill out. Once complete, that microchip is linked to a database with your contact information, so anyone that scans it (usually rescues, animal control and veterinarians) will be able to return your pet home safely. Unless done prior to adoption, you'll need to consider and possibly to make an appointment for a spay/neuter appointment.
- What vaccines are needed and why
- To crate-train or not to crate-train
- Introducing a new cat to an existing one
- Introducing a new dog to an existing one
- Dogs: Basic necessities
- Cats: Basic necessities
- My new dog has diarrhea
- My new dog has a frequent cough
- How much food should I feed my new cat/dog
- How should I go about changing my pet's food
- What to bring to your new pet's first vet visit
